Life and surfing

This afternoon I checked the surf report and it said 5-7ft clean (which we never get round here!!) so I dropped everything stuffed my wet suit and board into the car and set off to the beach. I will add at this point that I never surf alone; I don’t see point in taking the risk if you get washed out to sea that’s it no one will know for hours.  But this chance was one that was not going to pass me by at any price !!! As I got there a lot of people were leaving as it was about 4pm and the tide was coming in fast, only surfers remained.  I asked one kid who was leaving what it was like and he said that “it was big and ruthless there where quite a few surfers in the sea but one out back beyond the waves catching all the best ones” Amateurs I thought it wont take me long to get out back and sit and enjoy the stillness of the ocean with the sun beating down.  Nothing much better for the soul I thought. So into the water I dive and pass the nervous 1st timers in the white wash out in to the middle with the big guys who were battling to get out back.  on and on the waves came, there was some real power in them today I knew getting out back would be the only way to ride them.  But the wall of waves never seemed to let up and the ones that were coming in were big and strong but crap to surf on.  After about 30 mins of getting battered I thought I would go back in and take another look from the shore line to see if there was a gap to get though anywhere.   As I looked I saw it out left where no one seemed to be it was quite far out but it looked good. I set out again determined this time I would conquer nature and get what I wanted from her.  It was going well over the white wash though the middle slush and then the brake in the set came I knew I didn’t have long before the next set of monsters would be wanting to tan my behind.  I went for it (the thing I love about this part of surfing is that you knacker yourself getting out beyond the waves to then sit in the stillness and recover in total peace.   and then I was there out back the waves where braking further in on the shore line I took a deep breath and looked around I was the only one out back the feeling was euphoric I really didn’t think I was going to manage it today, and now all I wanted was one wave, one huge wave that I could live off for a month.  Lying in bed I could replay it in my head, when work seemed too much I could drift off and relive it again. The next set started to come in and I suddenly realised my mistake!!! I hadn’t got right out back but I was just on the brake line and the monsters seemed to be laughing as they rolled in the 1st one was ok I managed to ride over, but as I came down the other side I saw a huge 7ft wave beginning to gather steam.  this was the point that I thought shit, I am on my own completely here facing a wave that is going to feel like a 1,000 tons coming down on top of me and I have know idea if I will ever see the sky again after it has finished with me. as it rolled closer I knew the choices were his and not mine, he was going to make all the decisions about this moment, just as he was about 20 ft away I thought I could still get over him and take the next wave in.  But just as he lifted my board he peaked and said in a loud voice “your coming with me sunshine!” I took a deep breath and was flipped over backwards and he threw me into the depth of his belly.  The word washing machine comes to mind.  I was turned over and over and dragged deeper and deeper.   I started kicking my feet hoping that up was the direction I was going.  I don’t remember thinking much other than “don’t breathe out!”  Every sinew in my body was hurting because I could nit get any air and then just as I let go of the air in my chest before I needed to take another I was above the surface!!!!!!  Come on!!!!!  I felt so exhilarated I grabbed my board and scanned around for the shore line and suddenly realised how far out I was I knew that there were still some decent waves coming behind me but I knew that if the current decided to in my other direction I would have no choice but to go with it.  I knew the danger wasn’t over but I felt so knackered I wasn’t sure what to do. The next wave came and it had already broken so the white wash took me in a bit I swam along still looking for some other people but could see no one. It was another few waves before I saw a surfer to my left about 100m down the line.  Suddenly I felt safe again and I knew I could get back to the shore by just taking the white wash. I got back onto the beach and sat to catch my breath and think about what I had just done.  I started to laugh out loud thinking about what a prat I had been to think that I could just tip up and do what I wanted with the ocean.   I love it when you push the boundaries and nature just says ” NO !” Its funny really I know for many people that’s just all part of surfing but some how now life seems just that bit brighter, things taste sweeter, there is a peace about knowing that your not as though as you like to tell people you are !!! I am such a prat !! B 


3 thoughts on “Life and surfing

  1. Bethany

    you crazy foo’! theres a couple at church, Ian and Merry Springate (who have a baby called caleb, very cute!) and they are well into surfing, they often go to Brid and Devon – check em arrttt on facebook! i think they are wanting to start up a christain surfers club thing??

  2. Jen

    Part of me things its nice you’ve had some sort of spiritual experience, but the large part of me that fits ‘mother hen’ category, says please be careful!!!


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